Recently a small bistro, Meribel, opened up next to Camden Road station. It kept catching my eye as I entered the station so I decided to try and find it online. There wasn’t that much information, just contact details and sample menu, but it sounded good and I had a lunch booked with an ex-colleague so decided to give it a chance.
I’m extremely glad I did as – there’s no other phrase for it – it was completely charming.
As you first walk in there’s a breakfast counter perfect for people watching with a coffee and Sunday paper then, as you go further, you enter a modern ski-chalet style atmosphere. Little wooden tables in rows with exposed brick walls and a mezzanine level dining section above an open kitchen. The fact it’s under railway arches gives an impression of a grand mountain-side cavern and we were seated by a roaring gas fire that ran across the length of the wall with a beautiful brass flue. Looking up the ceiling was decorated with copper leaf and neon patchwork stencils that shouldn’t have worked but did, taking the room from twee to modern. My favourite touch however were the light fittings which were small bulbs encased by cut-glass port and whisky decanters.
What’s more, being under the train lines you think there’ll be terrible noise while dining but they were few and far between and barely even registered we were having such a good chat.
After cooing about how darn pretty it is we finally turned our attention to the menu. A small selection was offered for each course, which gave the impression they were all done to a high standard. It was all very traditional French fare, as you'd expect, including an alp-conjuring fondue for two, which unfortunately I missed out on (this time).
We skipped starters – though looking at the menu online as I write this, lord knows why – and went straight to the mains. I had the duck, which was perfectly pink and tender with a zesty orange glaze and wonderful vegetables, while my companion thoroughly enjoyed the mushroom risotto. As he was attempting a dry January I just had a beer but the wine selection was both extensive and well curated and I’m sure will be investigated on return visits.
In honour of my grandfather, who loves this dish, I had to try the apple tarte tatin, just to see if he’d like it, of course. The filling was sticky and sweet with the pastry a touch dry but this was balanced by the accompanying ice-cream (and better than soggy pastry, which I can’t stand). By the time I looked up from my plate the crème brulee opposite me had disappeared into a smiling face so I took that as a good sign.
With attentive staff, a well-executed menu and fantastic atmosphere, Meribel could well become a new favourite of mine. The only thorn in it's side is, though it's a great location for me and only 5 mins from Camden Town tube, they may have trouble drawing people away from the main drag. So foodies unite, and make sure this place continues for a long time - you won't be disappointed!
Good for – brunch, dinner, relaxed but impressive dates, families…pretty much everything
Bad for – people who don’t like French food, session drinking
£ – about £30 / head for 2 courses plus wine and service so not astronomical but much, much nicer than a Café Rouge
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