Bite of the Week: Monikers Hoxton Square

There’s been a spate of new openings in the Shoreditch area recently, but we've got to give a special mention to a venue that pulled us back multiple times, the splendid Monikers in Hoxton Square. We visited no fewer than three times in its opening week, and I’m going to tell you why.

Firstly the décor is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the venue’s history, which used to be part of the neighbouring church’s school. There’s an assortment of science beakers, a giant rolling chalkboard where they scribble specials and an old cloakroom bench is transformed into seating. A mezzanine level is fronted as a bus and there’ll be diner style booths upstairs when it’s finished. This could all trigger dark memories of terrible school dinners but with big bright windows leading onto a terrace and a pretty bar area it feels more like The Breakfast Club but set in Britain: a little naughty and full of potential.

On our first visit the barman made us a killer Bloody Mary and a delicious rhubarb concoction called the Greta Garbo. The English Patient with elderflower, apple and blueberries was a little sweet for my taste but still very nice. Later I dipped into their selection of reds, which were pleasant but I couldn't convince my companion to splurge on my favourite, Montepulciano, which they only sell by the bottle. A good shout for the meatier end of the menu is the Kernel Porter – very robust with roasted malts and a hint of chocolate that would go well with a game option.

The food is a sort of British tapas / modern European deal. I won’t talk you through the whole menu - top line is I've worked my way through most of it and it's all pretty good - but the stand-out dishes include honey mustard chorizo, grilled leeks, scallops and the chips. The bacon chop was perfectly cooked with a satisfying saltiness and actually could’ve done as a main on its own if you’re not into sharing. The buttermilk chicken was probably the only plate I didn't rate so highly as I prefer my fried chicken with a little kick but my friend liked the unusual pairing with tartare sauce.

Similarly on the dessert menu the buttermilk pudding was a little overwhelmed by the citrusy rhubarb however the chocolate marquise was outstanding. A velvety mousse on a thin sponge base topped with honeycomb. One of the best desserts I've had in a while. Well worth the calories and a smooth salted caramel ice-cream to accompany it. My only regret was sharing it.

So, a fun atmosphere, distinctive menu and great drinks: all in all, Monikers could distract us long enough from kissing boys behind the bike shed to teach us a thing or two about running a decent restaurant.


Good for – boozy brunch, casual date, friendly catch up, informal business
Bad for – Dating the principal
£ - about £25/head

Find them at 16 Hoxton Square, Hoxton, London, N1 6NT

Opening Hours:
Tues to Thurs 6:00pm – 11:00pm
Fri to Sat 10:00am – 12:00am
Sun 10:00am – 4:00pm

Book on 020 7042 7720 and follow @MonikersHSQ for updates.

Purl NW3

For weeks buzz has been building around sleepy Hampstead village and between various gastrophiles regarding Fluid Movement’s extension of the Purl brand with Purl NW3 and first 'no booking' restaurant offering, Dach & Sons, both housed at 68 Heath Street. This is part 2 of our review of both establishments.

Purl NW3


We headed upstairs to Purl NW3 as we had some time to kill before the gig we were going to later in the evening.  The décor had the same cosy vibe as the original Marylebone venue but there was still a bit of work to be done (e.g. hanging the curtains a bit better) however, there was a stunning gold leaf ceiling that had been uncovered during the renovations and pretty glass and wood tables. Run as a separate venue they’re sticking to the original Purl missive of craft cocktails with theatrical mixology based cocktails made by industry leading staff. However, a full menu was yet to be developed on our visit, as they wanted to have offerings unique from the Marylebone outpost.

Having said that, they had brought over their star drink, ‘Mr Hyde’, which is a spin on the tradition rum and coke. I plumped for this as it’s made with wonderfully smooth rum and the chocolate reduction component made it feel like a suitable dessert substitute. Served in a custom Victorian potion style bottle amid bubbling dry ice it definitely attracted a few glances and made it feel quite special. My friend had the Perfect Lady, which was comprised of gin, peach brandy and lemon with egg white foam. This was stupendous, slightly reminiscent of a fruit meringue. 

The big discussion of the night was whether this type of venue was sustainable with competition from the slew of central and east London venues. While it is a bit of a trek up the northern line and has to compete with cheaper gastropubs in the area, we settled on the fact that there is nothing like it nearby and given that equally remote Purl draws a consistent crowd we keep our fingers crossed that the other local residents agree.

Dach & Sons

For weeks buzz has been building around sleepy Hampstead village and between various gastrophiles regarding Fluid Movement’s extension of the Purl brand with Purl NW3 and first 'no booking' restaurant offering, Dach & Sons, both housed at 68 Heath Street. This is part 1 of our review of both establishments.

Dach & Sons  

Turning right out of Hampstead tube the bold signage is immediately noticeable (even to someone like me with mole-like vision) and inside the influence of the pillars on which Dach &Sons is founded, namely beer, whiskey, ‘dogs and sliders, is obvious. These pillars are a clear nod to the ubiquitous Americana trend that’s gripped London in recent times. However, it does not feel like it’s merely hopping on the bandwagon as it situated on a high street focused on independent retailers in an area in sore need of relaxed but trendy dining venue.

My friend and I started off with the Dach & Sons own brew, which was a deep orange colour, starting clean and finishing with a punch of hops which had a taste similar to Camden Pale Ale, and the Dark Star which was a lot more malty with a burnt caramel edge that was very interesting. We were also offered a sample of the guest ale which was a very floral light straw colour

The only cocktail on the menu is a julep. This, in my opinion, was a bold statement and the confidence it showed was a large reason for checking out the venue beyond the experienced backers. I opted for the Gentleman Jack version as I was after something a bit sweeter than the other candidates, but given the sweetness of the finished product I probably should have opted for something more robust. Personally I would have preferred fresh mint, especially as they grow their own on the roof, but the mint infusion used did help to keep consistency. It was very refreshing and went down quite nicely and the staff were so helpful I’m sure they’d have no qualms about adjusting to my personal taste next time (yes there’s a next time).

Moving on to the food, I think I can sum up the menu with the squeal we both emitted, “Ohhh, I want EVERYTHING!” He opted for the Banger which was a porky delight topped with an earthy mushroom ketchup and onions and elicited many sniggers at immature but very funny anatomy related innuendo. I landed on the greedy girl’s saviour: a trio of sliders. The multi-seed bun was the best with a peppery bacon jam I’d love the recipe for, though the glazed brioche style one came a close second with crunchy dill pickle and cheddar. The traditional floured bap was nice, but not a knockout as the sour cream rather overpowered the salt beef chilli. All three were a little too well done for my taste (I like them juicy) but that’s just personal preference, and adjustable for the aforementioned next time.

What I think will be the real draw, at least for the mid-afternoon clientele searching for something other than the myriad of pubs surrounding the heath, will be the sides. They’re a little pricey but on average, worth it. We had some yummy sweet potato wedges which went nicely with the fresh tarragon mayo, some lump Devils on Horseback which were a good pairing with the beers, and the most incredible invention of frickles (fried pickles – see what they did there) with a tangy own recipe ketchup that would happily replace my Heinz if I could get my hands on a bottle.

Early evening clientele were groups of friends and families with young children and later on we saw a few couples on relaxed dates. As expected for a new venue they edged into the hipster bracket but given location and the commitment to creating a neighbourhood vibe, which has a definite market if you take into account the meteoric rise of Kentish Towner, I’m sure there’ll be more locals frequenting as word gets out. Our tab came to £60 including tip which was quite reasonable given the excellent customer service. Despite competition from local gastropubs on price, the slice of stateside cool is more than welcome in an area crying out for a fashionable new hangout. With rumours of a dessert menu and proximity to the Everyman cinema, this could become a frequent spot for TGOC...

To keep up to date and to see more pictures please visit their Facebook page.

Market Cafe: Broadway Market

After posting the recipe for Love Stew I got a veritable FLURRY of invites from gentleman asking to accompany me for an evening of fine dining and entertainment. One in particular warranted further investigation so I arranged a date at new hackney hotspot Market Café. 

At best I find a charming gentleman to put a stop to my relatives asking, ‘so when are you going to get a boyfriend?’ – at this juncture I should point out that I am not a sad Bridget Jones figure, nor do I wear enormous knickers or have a generally heinous appearance or temperament but my elder brother and cousin are both getting married in a matter of WEEKS (not to each other just similar time frames, I’m not from the Fens) so I’m next in line in their eyes! Anyway, I digress – at worst I have a yummy meal out.

Buzz had been growing around this place on the site of former canal-side brunch spot La Vie En Rose, run by Benugo founder Hugo Warner and cheffed (is that a word?) by John Adams, formerly of River Café, and some sneaky details (like ice cream and cocktails) made me quite curious.

First off, though I knew exactly where it was, it took an age to get there as I (foolishly) had to rely on public transport. This was pretty much the only flaw I found and really, as Kelly will point out, it’s my own darn fault for moving out of East London. Get prepared for some serious blogger love…you ready? OK!

First off – lighting – my bug bear in any venue: In the bar area it was dim and sultry but on the raised restaurant section it was a little lighter, but still moody. I.E. light enough that I could read the menu but dim enough that I looked all 70s soft focus gorgeous (also known as pore minimizing lighting).

Décor – wooden 50’s furniture with Kath Kidson style wallpaper. I sort of felt like I was in a farmers wife’s kitchen that had been given growth hormone but in a good way; what I’m trying to say is that it was intimate and familiar without being chintzy. I also loved that my chosen outfit very much co-ordinated with this vibe.

Drinks – TFL had also scuppered my date’s arrival so I calmed my nerves before his arrival with my signature drink; a gimlet (I don’t wear perfume – I’ve got to have a signature something). Now usually these are served in haughty high priced hotel bars but this was not only incredible tasting but also a bargain at £5. I’ve paid more for a beer in some places. HAPPY BLOODY CUSTOMER and I hadn’t even eaten yet. There was an extensive wine menu with an Italian focus which I will definitely delve into next time but I had started as I meant to go on – cocktails all the way.  

I had just ordered a Hendricks Sour when my date walked in and he ordered the same while he thought about what he actually wanted as he needed to catch up (good move). The head bartender, Ian, stopped by our table to help us navigate the small but delicious sounding menu and we shared a Hackney Cup, which was a bit like a Pimms crossed with a Negroni. We continued with an Espresso Martini, a Martinez and another Gimlet. All top notch.

F.Y.I. Ian is my new favourite person who makes me alcohol – a passionate Aussie who looks like he’s about to say “I’ve seen things, man…you just wouldn’t understand”. Clearly a good chap to have on a night out.

I also forgot to mention that the glassware is amazing too.

Now we get to the part you’ve been waiting for – food. We decided – OK I decided – to sample a lot of the small plates and share because if we hadn’t I’m convinced there would have been plate envy.

We had parmesan chunks (which I was hoping to be more than crumbled parmesan but be warned – it wasn’t) which had a wonderful flavour and went very well with the sprouting broccoli in some sort of brown delicious sauce; roll mops, because they’re ace and my companion hadn’t had them before – luckily they were deliciously sweet and sour with a little crunch of onion; truffled rarebit which was tangy cheese on simultaneously fluffy and crusty bread with that earthy truffle flavour peeking through at the finish; and a slice of pork pie with the freshest piccalilli I’ve ever had (though I I were to critique I’d say it could’ve packed a bit more punch for my taste).

We were stuffed but had to have dessert. I’d heard good things about the Almalfi lemon sorbet, which were all true. It was very crisp and smooth, a true palate cleanser, and so prettily presented that if I was born with any self-control I would’ve photographed it before tucking in. Handy hint: add an side of homemade Limoncello to your order as, for me, it took the sorbet to the next level. The experience was only marred by the fact that opposite was the most fantastic gingerbread ice-cream topped with little gingerbread crumbs and I had jealousy issues. I think this was the only portion of the evening that conversation didn’t flow easily – we were both too focused on our plates!

The only negative was that staff were a bit like buses – three in quick succession then none for ages – though I’m sure that was a first night bug and easily fixed. They more than made up for it by letting us and a few other groups sit and talk until past 1am when they ‘officially’ shut at midnight.

All in all the company and the food were both excellent and great value for money. I’d love to return and see how the atmosphere is in the bar section…but will I be tempted to give up the fabulous single life and go on date no# 2? Stay tuned on both counts, readers.

Katy